Well not really broken, but peeling! I started making stained glass after a failed attempt at painting stained glass windows. I attended a small close knit church as a newly wed, and into my motherhood years. Our church was pretty bare so a group of us ladies got together to make some painted glass windows... you know the type.. its a stain made special for glass. After MANY hours of work we proudly put up our "windows". A few months later to our horror, all the color was peeling off and falling like snow! One member of our church had already been accomplished in stained glass and put out the invitation for "someone" to learn how to make "real" stained glass.... so my step mother and I took the bait. I had NO idea how hard it was going to be. I almost quit before I started. I didn't realize there were SO many steps involved. As I finished my first piece I excitedly placed it in the window. I couldn't believe how the sun made the colors and textures come alive! I was hopelessly hooked! To this day I feel the same excitement as I finish a piece and place it in the sunlight. I then stand back in amazement at the piece I have created and wonder who will share in my excitement!


We are only allowed 120 characters to describe a photo. So I am going to explain here.
This photo shoot is of the Traditional Nativity I have listed during Christmas.
I had to cut 81 pieces of glass, and shape 39 feet of came around those pieces. The project logged in at 37 hours. It takes much longer to make something in the more common "Tiffany" method than to use the came as in this project.
The first step is to choose the best glass for your project. Solid, or clear, smooth, or textured. I have over 500 square feet of glass in my shop. The first photo shows two of the four racks which hold my glass.
Photo number two: Tracing the pattern closely is a must. For a solid glass you must trace the pattern. For clear colored glass you can place your pattern and glass on a "light box". A raised box with a hard plastic cutting surface. The light beneath allows ease of seeing what you are cutting.
Cutting the glass. You actually are not cutting but "scratching" the glass. There are many factors involved in a good cut. First you must know the maker of the glass you are cutting. Different manufactures glass cuts easily or not so easily! The age and color of the glass also determines the ease or difficulty of cutting. It takes a lot of years and lots of practice in making good cuts. Inside curves are very difficult as are circles. You cannot just cut like you trace. You make straight cuts first, clip off that piece, then cut your curves. Its a long process. I have found it helpful to heat the glass before cutting. I use a heating pad.
Photo three: Shows cutting your pieces to a manageable size first. Then cutting as close on your traced lines as you can. There is always lots of waste in cutting glass.
Picture four: After you cut as close as you can, you need to use special curved pliers to nip or chew the remaining glass up to your lines. The final step is grinding. Grinding is done on a water based grinder. It is a loud, messy, nasty, dangerous job! I wear an apron that is always covered in glass grit/sludge. Of course eye protection is a must in any step of working with glass, but especially in grinding. I always end up with glass in my hair, and have even had the unpleasant experience of having glass grit in my teeth!
The last photo shows wrapping each piece in came and using a small mallet to shape the came and hold it close to the piece.
In the more traditional method of stained glass which is called the Tiffany method, a copper foil tape is applied to the edge of the glass. The glass must first be immaculate, washing in hot water with Dawn dish det. and ammonia. The rinsing process must be done well and dried thoroughly. Again the glass is heated, the foil applied with a special tool then rubbed down with a plastic lathe. The foil must stick well or the entire piece could be compromised. After the foil is applied an exacto knife is used to trim all the foil to the perfect shape. Some artists don't take this extra step as it is time consuming.
Which ever method you use, came or foil, before you apply solder you must brush on acid. This step is necessary or the solder won't stick. Your work area must have adequate ventilation for health reasons as the acid combined with the solder releases fumes of lead.
After reading all the above, you may see why I was tempted to quit before I started. But then again, just look at the results!